To understand how a pond progresses to this state let us first look at the progression of a pond in nature. Newly formed ponds often begin life as clear rivers that have been blocked on their progress. The water is clean and clear initially, with little plant life or nutrients. They are quickly colonized by microscopic organisms that set up the most basic of food chains and the foundation for future colonizers. As the pond matures, larger animals move in and bring with them the seed of plant species. The new pond is still balanced and has little excess nutrients, but this soon changes as more plant life colonizes and grow into larger numbers. Each Fall this plant life dies off and breaks down into organic matter or compost to feed more plant the next year and so on. The leaves from surrounding vegetation also contributes to the organic matter that spurs growth, just as it does in land-based systems. Soon the pond has an abundance of plants, and more nutrients than it needs. This leads to algae blooms that create large swings in oxygen that makes life in the pond precarious. The build up of organic matter also makes the pond shallower so that marginal plants can grow further out from the edge and more densely and the pond, year over year, becomes less pond and more swamp. The open water is limited to a few areas and the landscape begins to look more like the river that was originally there. Eventually the pond disappears all together and the organic matter that started as pond plants now benefits terrestrial ones.
Very few people plan to have a swamp down the road as they dig their pond but if we know what maintenance is required on a pond to delay or prevent this natural progression then the work in years to come is much diminished. But what if the pond was dug many years back without this knowledge and needs to be restored? Knowing how the pond progressed to this stage actually helps to find the path back to the pond envisioned when it was first built. The main difference between these stages of pond maturity is the amount of nutrients (or organic matter) that are present in the system. So, by managing this organic matter through aeration, probiotics and weed control we can mitigate the filling in and increased maintenance of a pond.
Before we look at these techniques for restoring a pond, I would first like to address the idea of re-digging a pond that is mostly filled in. There are situations where this is going to be the best option for a fast reset and opportunity to start over. Before going this route, however, there is some information you should be aware of so that you are prepared for what will be in store after the pond is re-dug. One of the main nutrients that is required for plant growth is phosphorus or phosphates. Phosphorus is a soil-based nutrient that is absorbed into ecosystems and is not created during the digestive process as waste, such as nitrogen. This means that it is in shorter supply in nature and this is especially true in aquatic systems where it is often the limiting factor for plant growth. I say this so that you will realize that as soon as freshly dug soil, say a new pond, and water come into contact the water will have very high levels of phosphorus dissolved into it. This generally results in a problem called “new pond syndrome” where you often encounter frequent and bad algae blooms in cycles. The fresh start you thought you would have often results in a pond that may temporarily be more problematic than the original pond. To mitigate this problem setting up a program of aeration, probiotic and/or flocculant can help to bind the phosphorus so that it is less available and break the cycle of algae growth.
If re-digging the pond is not the route you choose, I would suggest the following combination to help restore. Firstly, aeration is the best step you can take for your pond and it will have the biggest impact while mitigating a myriad of problems. Aeration will accelerate organic matter break down by up to 10 times, reduce smells, reduce mosquito population, prevent stagnation and reduce algae and weed growth. This is all due the introduction of oxygen into the water column, ideally from the bottom to the top. This is generally accomplished by using an oil-free continuous duty air compressor that moves air down to diffusers, or air stones at the bottom of the pond. The air diffuser breaks up the air pushed through it by the compressor into small bubbles that have a large surface area and allow for optimal air transfer. Aeration from the bottom of the pond will benefit all depths while circulating the water as well. This style of system add oxygen in two ways. Oxygen is added in the column of bubbles as they rise to the surface through contact-transfer and they also add oxygen at the surface as the pond is circulated. This will create high oxygen levels throughout the pond with proper air stone placement. These systems have the added benefit of using less hydro compared to the area that they treat and can be located in areas where power is not readily available along the shoreline. While fountains can add both aesthetics and oxygen to a pond, they will only aerate the upper four to six feet of the water column.
Probiotics can be used in ponds to help further accelerate the breakdown of organic matter in a pond and work best in the presence of aeration as they use aerobic (oxygen loving) beneficial bacteria. The probiotics can be designed to do many jobs in a pond including clarifying the water column, breaking down soluble nutrients in the water and breaking down organic debris at the bottom. We will focus on the last type as this layer of organic debris on the bottom is a constant source of nutrient to the water in the pond as well as the plants that grow in it. There are many probiotics on the market that target bottom sludge but when selecting one make sure to compare the dosage rate of each as they can range greatly as well as the climate they are designed to work in. Selecting one that is developed for our climate and produces results across a wide range of water conditions is important and will ensure the best results, and dosage rates can greatly affect the budget you will need for these applications. The process of breaking down muck with probiotics happens on a microscopic scale but is fairly simple. Aerobic probiotics use the organic material as a food source if oxygen is present. Just like any other animal with an abundant food source, they will grow and multiply and will also become a food source for other animals in the pond such as snails, crustaceans and larger microscopic animals. This results in a reduction of organic matter that will be available to plant life in the pond as well as gradually deepen the pond. This is not an overnight process but year over year there will be fewer organic debris which in turn will result in less algae and weed growth. As the pond deepens there will also be fewer areas for weed and marginal plants, like phragmites, to inhabit as they are limited by water depth.
The final layer to this plan, depending on how far along the pond has progressed, is weed removal. Depending on the type of weed, invasive or native, and the area you are in, there may be different options available to you on this front. Weed removal can be a very labour-intensive job but it has the benefit of removing not only the plant but all the nutrients that were absorbed but the plant in order to grow. As such, it reduces the organic load of the pond and helps to reduce future problems. Weed removal is best used as a selective tool to fine tune where plants can grow and how many. I do not want to give the impression that all plants in a pond are bad but instead it is about balance. Some marginal plants such as cattails are very beneficial as they stabilize the shoreline, remove soluble nutrients for the pond and provide valuable natural habitat but having the water feature obscured can be problematic. Remove weeds as appropriate to find this balance in your situation.
There are many ponds that we see that have not been maintained and have progressed into a stage of maturity with shallow depth, high organic content and large swaths of marginal plants but these ponds can be restored! The use of the right combination of tools will be required, as will time, but if you are working on restoring your pond at least it is not progressing further from its original design.
Julia Webber
Fish Farm Supply Co Inc
Serving the Lake and Pond Industry Since 1989
]]>
Welcome everyone to Fish Farm Supply's new website! Thank you very much for stopping by!
Our goal for this site is to provide a huge range of products with extensive information for sizing, selection etc. In addition, we want to provide a wealth of interesting and inspiring information at your fingertips - everything from designing and building your first pond, installing equipment, cool new ideas, advice, and troubleshooting. We're even going to provide information to get you started in Aquaculture if that's something you're looking for!
We know we've set our bar pretty high, and its going to be a long journey before we can get all this accomplished so we really appreciate your patience in this transition. As always, you're welcome to give us a call and ask questions if the topic hasn't been discussed here. Or better yet, you can comment on this post and tell us a topic you'd like to read about! We'll make it a priority to get to your topic pronto. We'll be posting new articles on an ongoing basis, so add us to your favorite's list and tour back often!
Do you have article topic suggestions? Website suggestions? General comments? Questions? Please leave us a comment below. We'd love to hear from you!
]]>Adding air to a pond has a huge impact on the health of the ecosystem: It circulates the water, disrupts mosquito breeding, adds oxygen for fish and other critters, and it helps prevent algae and other weeds. Aeration is by far the best bang for your buck in terms of pond health. And did I mention less mosquitoes?
Aeration has many forms - fountains, windmills, aerators, circulators and electric compressors, and more. All these options have their pros and cons.
Compressors are visually minimal (with the exception of a windmill itself). They provide compressed air flow down an airline into the bottom of the pond, where the air is forced through a diffuser stone that breaks it up into tiny bubbles.
These tiny bubbles provide bottom-up aeration which is the most efficient; the bubbles have a long way to travel through the water, maximizing oxygen transfer into the water. An addition, as they rise they spread out into a cone, oxygenating the largest surface area of pond per unit of electricity.
As bubbles rise from the bottom of the pond, they drag water up with them. Water from the surface then moves to the bottom to replace it, and as such creates a circular motion, stirring the whole pond. Circulation of water from the bottom up prevents stratification - oxygen actually makes it down to the bottom of the pond. Stirring and oxygenating the deep water allows a faster and more complete break down of wastes like decaying plant matter, fish manure, leaves, twigs, etc. This means you'll have less smelly gasses and water, and best of all: less algae.
Electric compressors need to be well ventilated and most need to be housed in a clean and dry compartment - like a doghouse, barn, or shed. Compressors can be ran year-round or seasonally, depending on your goals (algae control, winter kill, deicing, etc.)
This type of aeration provides visuals - fountains especially, aerators to a far lesser degree. Both units hang under a donut-shaped float and use a motor-driven propeller to throw water up into the air. The difference between a fountain and an aerator is that a fountain forces the water at high pressure through a nozzle that creates a specific display, whereas the aerator has no nozzle.
This style of aeration does not provide the same oxygenation at the bottom of the pond as an air compressor, and as such, isn't as successful at fighting algae and weed growth. These will circulate the top layers of water, which helps keep the pond surface free of scum and tree pollen. The benefit of this is that the do not disturb the lower levels of water - this is good for ponds with trout and other cold-loving fish. Another advantage with fountains and aerators is that they do a superior job of aerating shallow water bodies where you would otherwise need a large number of diffusers for an air compressor.
Water is much heavier and more dense than air, so understandably it would take more energy to move it when compared to air. This is why fountains, aerators, and circulators all require more electricity than an air compressor. This should be taken into consideration when considering which to purchase.
Lastly, fountains can be seriously damaged in freezing conditions, and as such are only seasonal water features.
Similarly to fountains and aerators, circulators turn over the top layers of water without disturbing the bottom. Circulators are motor-driven propellers that hang horizontally under a black plastic float, providing thrust for a stream-like environment. These are popular for moving debris, or keeping debris from floating into a bay. As mentioned above, circulators require more electricity to run than a compressor would. Because of the float at the surface of the water, circulators can be damaged in freezing conditions and should only be used when temperatures allow.
]]>For regular air compressors (not pure oxygen), we sell two kinds of airstones; those made of silica, and those made of aluminum oxide. Here's a quick overview so you can chose the best stone for your purpose:
These are the airstones commonly found in aquarium stores. They're available in different colours, like blue, green, or white. They're also available in a very wide variety of sizes, ranging from 1" for small aquariums, up to 12" for large industrial tanks. Silica air stones are often used for studies in laboratories that study toxicology as they are completely free of metal, and therefore are unreactive with most chemicals. In addition, silica airstones are less expensive than alternative materials, and require less pressure from the air compressor than aluminum oxide stones.
Their downfall: silica is not very durable. In fact, just by handling the airstones, you can feel sand crumbling off them. These stones have a finite lifespan, and can only withstand a very gentle cleaning.
Aluminum oxide stones produce the same size of bubbles as regular silica (fine pore size is also available). By comparison, aluminum oxide airstones are incredibly durable. These will stand up to many years of harsh cleaning and use. Aluminum oxide is the same material that makes up grinder wheels. Although these are available in small sizes, the majority of their use is in industrial, commercial, or large pond applications.
Their downfall: Do not use in glass aquariums as they will vibrate and scratch the glass, eventually breaking it. Also, aluminum oxide creates more back pressure on the compressor, so more pressure is required.
Rectangular stones are good for smaller applications: in enclosed tanks, industrial applications. The 7 inch domes are specially designed with a PVC plate on the bottom, so all of the air bubbles are directed either sideways or straight up - none down. This prevents the airstone from digging into soft-bottom ponds, and maximizes the upward flow of water to help circulate your pond at the same time as adding oxygen.
Aluminum oxide diffusers are virtually indestructible (although they will break if dropped!) but need occasional cleaning. The frequency of cleaning will be determined by the mineral and organic content in the water. On average, stones will need to be cleaned once per year, but could require as much as every few months.
1. Check air stone - Is it heavily soiled or damaged?
Yes – Clean or replace -- Cleaning instructions
No – Continue to step 2
2. Observe the check valve on top of the airstone – Is it damaged? Any blockage? Check the brass one-way valve insert inside for functionality.
Problems – Clean or replace
All good – Continue to step 3
3. Check the full length of airline tubing for chew marks, cuts, cracks.
Damage found: splice in a new section of tubing or replace
No visible damage – Continue to step 4
4. Disconnect the airline at the pressure release valve. Try blowing air down toward the stone in the pond using an electric compressor.
No air passage: the line is likely blocked. You may be able to locate the blockage and remove that section of line, or replace the line altogether.
Airstone bubbles in the pond – Continue to step 5
5. Reconnect the airline. Put the airstone into 1-2ft of water and watch for bubbles when the fan spins
If there are no bubbles, the compressor is either not generating enough pressure or is not connected to the airline.
Bubbling only in shallow water indicates the compressor not building up enough pressure
Continue to step 6
6. Tie off the compressor fan so it can't spin or swivel. Ensure the airline at the compressor is in good shape, not kinked, and is still attached to the bottom of the compressor pipe as well as the elbow at the top.
Airline damaged or not attached – trim damaged line off and reattach
Connections are good – Continue to Step 7
7. Open up the top of the compressor and appraise the one-way valve inserts (one or two inside, depending on the age of your windmill.)
Inserts are working properly – Continue to step 8
Inserts are not working - replace.
8. Check the diaphragm for wear: cracks, splits, holes.
Diaphragm is not in good condition – Replace. Note the style, take a picture, or take the diaphragm with you to purchase a replacement to ensure a proper fit.
Diaphragm replacement instructions
Diaphragm is in good condition – Continue to step 9
9. Take a look at the brass check valve that is on the top of the can. Ensure it is functional (you can suck air through it but not blow through it).
Brass check valve is not functional and needs to be replaced - the top screws open and the small inner parts can be replaced.
Brass check valve is functional – Continue to step 10
10. Remove the silver backing on the compressor. Is anything broken inside?
Yes – Replace
No – Continue to step 11
11. If you still have not come to a resolution, give us a call and we will discuss it.
Please see our selection of commonly needed parts. If you need to replace something that isn't here, please give us a call and we can help.
]]>Fresh Water O2
C◦
F◦
Another chart here
]]>Designing your pond is a complicated process requiring you to balance numerous factors, all while considering cost and maintenance. Start from the big picture, and work your way down to the specifics.
What is your main motivation to have a pond? Do you want to hear the gentle trickle of water while you drink your morning coffee? Maybe you’d like your own private fishing spot. Or an extension of a land-based garden. Do you envision a waterfall, or maybe a fountain? Fish or no fish, plants or not, size, placement – These are all factors that will affect the construction of your pond.
The species of fish you chose will drastically affect the size of your pond. Trout, for example, require very cold water and lots of swimming space. We would suggest a minimum water depth of 15ft in order to keep them cool in the summer.
Goldfish and koi can tolerate a very wide range of pond sizes, and a wide range of temperatures. Goldfish and koi are very versatile but beware: they are not recommended for non-lined ponds -- they constantly forage in the dirt for bugs. The result: your water will always be muddy and murky. In addition, these species must not be kept in a pond where there is any chance of escape into rivers, streams, etc. They are extremely prolific and will cause serious problems for native wildlife.
Regardless of species, water must be at least 4ft deep to prevent freezing solid over winter and killing the fish. For the summer months, shallow ponds should have lots of shaded areas for the fish to cool off.
Water features are a key aspect of many people’s vision for their pond. It is more practical to add provisions for a waterfall or fountain (like elevation changes and power supply) into your original design, as opposed to making it work later. Despite adding an aesthetic appeal, they are also functional in that they circulate water and add vital oxygen. In the event that you decide not to have either, we would strongly suggest another form of aeration – a bubbler system. Bubblers provide water circulation, add oxygen, use minimal electricity, and have limited visibility.
Once you’ve decided on the above factors, you can make decisions on location and size. Size correlates very closely with cost and maintenance, so bear this in mind.
If you’ve decided on a large pond, you will probably have an earth-bottom or lined pond. If you’ve chosen very large, you’ll probably go with earth- or clay-lined because of the lack of availability of large liners. If you would like a small pond, you will likely use liner or preformed ponds. When deciding on your substrate, you may want to consider the cost – large liners are very expensive. Once you’ve decided on the size of your pond, you can use the dimensions calculate the volume of water that you will have. This will be important for deciding on equipment.
Although you’re now ready to decide on equipment (filter, waterfall weir, fountain, etc.) you may want to wait to purchase these items. Unforeseen complications in digging your pond may force you to make small changes to your original design. Similarly, do not buy liner without having already dug the pond, and measured twice. Liner is very expensive to end up with a piece too big, and seaming pieces to make it larger is not always reliable. If you've chosen a small preformed pond: buy the pond first, then dig the hole to match.
The size of your waterfall or filter will dictate the size of the water pump you will need to deliver the water. You’ll select your pump based on the flow rate, as well as the head – the measure of height that the pump needs to push the water.
For fountain sizing, you’ll need to calculate the surface area of your pond. The fountain should be large enough to provide adequate aeration and water circulation, without concerns of emptying your pond onto your yard.
Before getting too far into your planning, it’s a good idea to look into local bylaws regarding ponds. Also, it is very important to locate underground utilities before you dig.
Check out our Calculations page for some common calculations that will help you in your planning.
Comments or questions? Leave us a comment!
]]>